From Obscurity to Clarity: School, Down Time, and the Philippines

I returned to America after 3 years in Africa without a plan. It was an intentional move; I chose to, for the first time in my life, focus on the present without worrying about the future. And predictably, it took me a little while to find my footing upon my return.

But over the past three months, I have finally charted what I hope will be a rewarding path for myself. My first decision was to attend graduate school, obtaining a Master's of Public Administration (or equivalent) focused on international development.

Graduate school will allow me to bind together my prior educational, professional, and international experiences and direct them towards my field of choice. I just finished applying to several graduate schools across the East Coast for enrollment next Fall. But given this decision, I still found myself with a large gap to fill.

I continued to apply for jobs both domestically and abroad, and eventually faced a choice between a civil engineering position in New York City and a disaster management position in the Philippines. With some great advice from people currently in the development field, I opted for the latter.

Unless you've been living under a rock (I don't judge, that was me just a little while ago!), the first thing that surely comes to mind at the mention of the Philippines is the devastation caused by Typhoon Haiyan. Interestingly, I accepted this position on November 6th. The category five storm hit the island nation two days thereafter.

I will serve as a Disaster Risk Reduction Program Specialist in the Municipality of Rosario, Northern Samar Province. I will be working with government staff who have faced challenges in implementing their local Disaster Risk Reduction and Management Plan due to a lack of technical and financial support.

My assignment entails completing the following:

1. Enhancement of the municipality’s 5-Year Disaster Risk Reduction and Management Plan
2. Prepared digitized hazard maps for each barangay
3. Enhancement of training module for community disaster preparedness and mitigation
4. Conducted training with DRRMO staff and barangay volunteers on disaster preparedness and mitigation.

Peering Through The Fog

The term 'reverse culture shock' gets a lot of play in Peace Corps circles. In short, readjusting to your own culture after a two or three-year stint immersed in a foreign culture can be just as, if not more, difficult than acclimating to that foreign culture proved originally.

These past couple of months in America have proved rather challenging, but for different reasons altogether. Reasons which are familiar to any one of us, reasons which transcend culture. What I'm alluding to is uncertainty. Finding a new purpose, a new place to belong.

Sure, I've been overwhelmed with the relative ornate characteristics of American life. I've spent ten minutes staring at menu choices, unable to come to a decision as my friends wait. I've marveled at the wonder of a washing machine. I've bemoaned the omnipresence of the iPhone (then quickly caved myself), and the proverbial distance between one another, which African culture could never allow. But those are all trivialities. You wonder, you adjust, you move on.

I don't yet have a place to call home. Before leaving Kenya, I had resolved to live in a city. Preferably New York or DC. And, aside from visits with family, it is there where I've spent my time. Staying with friends, experiencing both places as I try to make some decisions. Both cities, I really enjoy. New York has taken a slim lead, but I've really enjoyed all the diversity, the possibilities, the people in both. For all the flack New York City gets for being impersonal, I've found that's just on the streets. When your at a bar, at any event, people here are less cliquey, more approachable and likely to mingle.

New York City. Doesn't get much different from my village than this, but so far I love it.

But I can't choose quite yet...

Stepping Aside

Omondi and James of Mumbaya Youth Group solicit the help of family in their households to prick out tree seedlings.

I have known that most of my projects, due to the brevity of my time, would not be fully implemented until after I have already left. I have strived to ensure that these projects were planned in a sustainable manner, such that when I step aside, they can proceed without any major issues.

These projects include:

Improving Healthcare Access for Communities within the Swamp

I have been working to mobilize and guide staff members at Osieko Dispensary to institute weekly mobile clinics (by boat) into marginalized communities within the Yala Swamp to improve access to healthcare. Over 4,000 people live in these communities, where a trip to the doctor means passing through the swamp by boat, then entering the often volatile waters of Lake Victoria, to arrive at Osieko Dispensary. The journey proves to be too demanding for most people, who instead simply do without healthcare.

In February, Edwin and I travelled to Osieko Dispensary to discuss the idea with staff. They raised several concerns, but acknowledging the need, were very much willing to pursue the project.

Attaining Closure

A picture with my 'wamama wa soko' in front of the new market shade constructed by the government. I love chatting with these women each evening. They have taken to calling me their son, 'mtoto wetu!' The mama directly in front of me is holding up the gift that she insisted I bring back to my mother in America, 'omena'. 'Omena' are small, sun-dried fish which the locals fry or boil to eat with ugali. We'll have to see how much stench emanates from my luggage and whether they'll allow them on the plane home.

Leaving site this time around has been much less emotional. In Mali, I went to bed one night knowing I still had 5 solid months in Makili, only to wake up the next day knowing that I'd be gone in a matter of days. Thankfully, this time around here in Kenya, I've been able to instead close out my service on my own terms.

I have known that my last day of service would be June 28th, meaning that I would have to leave site on the 26th. I have been able to not only prepare my friends and colleagues for my imminent departure, but also my own state-of-mind.

My relative lack of emotion this time around betrays the fact that I feel just as close to Budalang'i as I did to Makili. The difference simply owes itself to preparation.

Mumbaya Youth Group and my host family, that of 'mzee' John Mango, both threw me small going-away parties. More surprisingly, my host organization which I have not been working with, decided to do so as well. These gatherings meant a lot to me, showing that my work has been appreciated. But beyond these brief gatherings, I have more-so appreciated the simple opportunity to continue life as part of the 'wanyala' community right until the end, spending more time with the people that have made this experience so special.

And that is what this post is about, just a handful of the many people who have made ten months go by so quickly:

A talk to bring it all home...

Speaking with 90 young men in Form 4 at St Benedict's Budalang'i High School yesterday.

Over the past couple of weeks, I have had the opportunity to speak with students at two nearby secondary schools. 150 young men and women within the health and young Christian clubs at Nyambare Secondary School in nearby Siaya District, and 90 young men in Form 4 at our local St. Benedict’s High School here in Budalang’i.

At each school, I was given a one-hour time slot to speak to the students, offering any advice I thought could help them. These talks, however brief, were two of the most fulfilling and enjoyable experiences I’ve had in my three years in the Peace Corps.

Not only did I have a blast, but the students also seemed to enjoy themselves, taking notes and participating when engaged. Although I wish I had time to work at more secondary schools, it is fitting that these opportunities have effectively concluded my time in the Peace Corps.

There was a time when filling such a long time slot would be a daunting task. What could I possibly talk about? But in the past three years, through the work and conversations I’ve had within my communities both in Mali and Kenya, I’ve developed an understanding of the issues of development, along with ways to frame my arguments to motivate those around me to take charge of their own lives. In many ways the speeches I gave are the culmination of my time, an appropriate summary of everything I’ve learned about development.

Teaching Taboo: Advising The Next Generation

Students at New Hope perform a range of role plays on resisting peer pressure.

I have been teaching weekly Adolescent Reproductive Health and Lifeskills classes at two local primary schools. At New Hope Primary School, I teach approximately 100 students from standards 5 through 8. At Budalang'i Primary School, I teach approximately 60 students from standard 8. This has been yet another opportunity to work in a field which I have no prior experience in. As time has gone on, I've gotten more and more comfortable with teaching and have come to rather enjoy it.

Answering questions from the students at New Hope prior to beginning a lesson on HIV/Aids.

Makilikaw ka baara, a ka ɲi de!

The rains have begun falling across the arid Mali landscape, where the villagers of Makili have returned to the fields to till the land and plant the crops that will sustain them through the upcoming year. My host brother Benke and other close friends were amongst the many to marry during the busy wedding season, which has just come to a close.

I miss my friends and family there. Especially during the wedding season, which I enjoyed more than any other, despite it being the hottest time of year. One friend asked me if I could be his ‘'kɔnyɔncɛ', basically his best man involving responsibilities such as stealing his fiancée in a donkey cart, amongst others. We joked, ‘a ka gɛlɛn dɔɔni’ (that'll be just a little difficult). Youssoufu told me people keep asking ‘Maliki ka dɔn bɛ min?’ (where is Maliki’s dance?).

I am happy to be able to keep in touch with my friends regularly, and am so proud of the work that they have continued in my absence:

Water and Sanitation Committee

Dramani, the chairman of the committee, sounded disheartened when we spoke on May 12th. One of the two pumps we had installed, serving the Diarrakɛla ‘kin’ (neighborhood), broke. I tried to offer encouragement, to advise him on how they can fix it themselves.

When I called him back two days later, he was beaming with pride. He told me that they had just repaired the pump themselves without ever having to ask anyone else for help. A piece of the piston unit had fallen within the well, and using their pump tools, they were able to retrieve, replace, and tighten it.

He excitedly proclaimed that now they can repair any pump on their own. We talked of even charging other communities to repair their pumps elsewhere. He sounded very proud, and I was too. I told him that’s why I wanted to teach them, ‘Aw ni baara’ (great work)!

I mentioned that the pump must have broken because of how it has been misused by people slamming the handle. While the villagers know how important the rule is, they need to take this opportunity to enforce it. He agreed, told me they are.

On Natural Disasters, NGOs, and Our Indelible American Spirit

Listening to the BBC World Service this week, I’ve been hearing many stories of destruction and survival from the tornado which struck Oklahoma on Monday. On Wednesday, a BBC reporter was interviewing a man who has already engaged himself in the rebuilding effort.

The reporter asked the man how is it that he can just move on and begin to rebuild so soon after such a devastating event that turned his entire town to rubble. The man basically replied that this is simply what we do as Americans. We keep moving forward, we tackle adversity.

The reporter seemed genuinely in awe, saying that it is always surprising how quickly Americans bounce back at times like this. And you know what, after having lived in Africa for nearly 3 years, he’s right. Our resiliency is an absolutely remarkable trait.

Could my community of Budalang’i here in Kenya ever bounce back from a natural disaster so quickly? Would they seize control of their situation, begin rebuilding as soon as the dust settled?

I contend that the answer is a resounding no. This community has seen their share of natural disasters – much of the area suffers from substantial flooding each year. But in times of such crises, what do the local people generally do? They lay stagnant, plead for assistance from the government and from foreign NGOs.

To drive the point home, a friend of mine told me today that he was walking along the dykes and noticed people, who’s houses had not been flooded nor threatened in the least, had already moved their families atop the dykes. Why? Because they want to be ready to receive free food once the NGOs come in to assist the victims. I have never encountered such an extreme level of dependency in America.

Without a doubt, in any natural disaster, outside assistance is required. Even in America, we can’t pick up our lives alone after such an event. Food, water, shelter… the necessities must be provided for during those initial days before we can obtain them on own. Even some money to support the task of rebuilding can be essential.

But the difference is the mentality, the amazingly quick rebound from tragedy in America before we begin working to rebuild our lives.

A Parting Trip to Uganda

I am now very much at the end of my service in the Peace Corps. I now have about 5 weeks left in Kenya, and in the Peace Corps in general.

Over the past year, I have had the pleasure to get to know both Kenyans and other Peace Corps Volunteers alike, many of whom I'd now count as some of my closest friends. Thankfully, this time around I have the opportunity to close my service out right, unlike in Mali where evacuation necessitated a sudden and hectic exit.

Our group picture after suiting up to raft the Nile River this past Saturday, May 18th.

Over the next 5 weeks, I'll remain tethered to my site, transitioning out of my projects and spending some final meaningful moments with the people I have grown to love here in Budalang'i. But over the past month, I took some time away from site for a couple final outings with my PCV friends.

On May 6th, I left site to attend a two-day close-of-service conference in Naivasha followed by two-days of medical examinations in Nairobi to close out the week. This was a good opportunity to get together with friends, socialize, and reminisce. Unfortunately due to my unique circumstances, the group that I am closing out with is not the same group that I came in with. That group still has another year in-country to fulfill.

So after returning to site for almost a week, I was thrilled to join 18 of my closest PCV friends, with whom I had arrived in Kenya and spent two months in training with, on a vacation to Uganda over this past weekend.

Back to the Beginning: Water Committees

Angelina, a CHW (Community Health Worker) in Mumbaya village, shows off their hand pump, currently in disrepair.

With the stark differences in culture and work environment, it has been surprising to see my experience in Kenya shift closer and closer to the one I had in Mali. Most recently, I have seen the needs of the community bring my work back to where I started with the Peace Corps: water.

New Drinking Water Sources

Back when I was traveling throughout our district to get to know the community and their major challenges, I documented several areas where access to clean water is problematic. Early last month I met with Pascale, the local Ministry of Water official who oversees new project planning, to discuss these areas and how best we can assist them. Due to my short time left in Bunyala, I felt that the best thing I could do was to inform the government of such areas and link the communities with the resources required to improve their situation.

In the village of Sisenye, I had noticed a large segment of the population in a particular neighborhood must walk long distances to fetch dirty water from the lake. Pascale informed me that the ministry is currently working on a piped-water scheme nearby, but in our discussion, we found that there were no plans of extending the line to this particular area. He said that during other extension work planned during the next fiscal year beginning this July, he will add a distribution line to serve this area.

Tree Nursery Establishment

After our tree nursery and agroforestry training finished up on April 20th, Mumbaya Youth Group met four times throughout the following two weeks to prepare our nursery for planting. We extended and improved the fencing, tilled the soil, and prepared the seedbeds (pictured above: members Francesca and Stephen) . Unfortunately, out of 11 members currently within the community, only about 4 members attended this work.

This past Sunday, however, 10 out of the 11 members showed up to plant our first round of tree seeds. Not all on-time, but I'd call that progress. We planted 8 different species, several of which Stephen pretreated the night before to ensure they'd germinate effectively. Pictured above, members prepare the seedbeds by adding a layer of sand to help ease the removal of seedlings later.

A Volunteer for the Community

I've tried.

Those are the words that come to mind when I think of my host organization at the moment.

I've tried.

I arrived at this organization at a time when my Peace Corps-designated 'supervisor' was on his way out to pursue politics. There was a lack of planning and preparedness with regards to the transition over to a new program coordinator, and a lack of staff.

I did my best to assist the staff who had remained, advise them on how to move forward. But when the person set to take the leadership position of the organization was neither willing nor able to move forward, it was up to the board to right the ship.

I've tried.

Since arriving here last August, I have consistently advised the organization's board members to effectively change the organizational culture and to hold regular meetings, at least monthly, to ensure that they can guide the organization appropriately. While they have held a few 'executive' board meetings with often only 3 or 4 of the 12 members of the board, they have been only held at times of absolute need.

I've tried.

As staff dwindled to none, I did my best to attend meetings, to represent the organization, even though my work should be done in conjunction with people, not solo. I trusted the chairman of the board, I felt that the will was there, that we could right things. My hope was before leaving, staff would take over. In the meantime, my efforts could bridge the gap, keep the organization relevant within the community.

I've tried.

I moved around the community with my counterpart, presenting ourselves as volunteers of the organization, actively building relationships and planning out new projects which could help the community.

Bunyala World Malaria Day Football Tournament

My hometown team, Budalang’i FC, or Budo Ijax. I’m good friends with most of these guys, and was hoping to present them with our championship in the end.

I had been working on planning a Bunyala District World Malaria Day event since December, when I approached the Ministry of Health about holding the event across the river by the swamp. Naturally, with all the standing water in the swamp and low-lying areas, this is the area which suffers most from malaria. And due to it's remoteness from District headquarters, they usually don’t have the opportunity to host such an event.

At the time everyone was on board with my suggestion. But unfortunately as we began our stakeholders’ planning meetings, which began only a couple weeks ago despite my insistence, we found that we could not get a sponsor. Unlike most years, PSI and other NGOs which generally sponsor this yearly event decided only to hold one event per county.

Along with Henry Bennett, my nearest fellow Peace Corps Volunteer in Port Victoria, we worked primarily with my friend Peter Odongo of the local Burenjo CBO and Eugene Nambesa, the District Malaria Control Coordinator, to pull together a more grassroots event. Through Peace Corps, each volunteer was able to obtain a small amount of shirts, footballs, and bags, which naturally fit very nicely into holding a football tournament.

Live On Air

It’s interesting for me to see how my service has shaped up. Both in Mali and Kenya, my most significant projects have often been ones I hadn’t given much thought to at first. By thoroughly integrating into the community, opportunities just present themselves in the form of the needs and desires of the community, and the people who I’ve gotten to know. The best way to help is to just go with the flow.

Steve-o, Vincent, and I during our radio spot at Bulala FM Wednesday afternoon.

While preparing for our tree nursery training, Steve-o, the secretary of Mumbaya Youth Group decided to reach out to the media. In rural East Africa, this means the local vernacular language radio station. Bulala FM, the local radio station here in Budalang’i sent one of their on-air presenters, Moses, to attend our two-day training.

Following the training, we were given a one-hour long radio spot from 11AM to 12 PM to discuss the importance of trees, methods and benefits of tree planting in our area, and our work in particular. Steve-o and I decided to tag team the spot, and although at first the length dedicated specifically to us was rather daunting, we had a great time, and were both honestly giddy walking back about how well it went.

Steve-o and I prepared material the night before. We basically followed what we had discussed, but Vincent, the radio presenter, wanted to handle our show in the form of an interview. So he tailored his questions to lead us into our planned material. And Steve-o and I basically split the time equally. Steve-o mainly spoke ‘olunyala’, the local vernacular, while I spoke mostly ‘kiswahili’, with my limited ‘olunyala’ mixed in.

Tree Nursery Training

Last Friday and Saturday, Mumbaya Youth Group, as well as other community members, received training on tree nursery development from trainer Dickson (left) of Trees for the Future.

Back in early February, I helped my fellow members of Mumbaya Youth Group to plant moringa tree seeds which I had previously received from Trees for the Future, an American-based NGO who came to speak to us at our Peace Corps In-Service Training in December. Unfortunately, chickens destroyed all but four of the seedlings, but the group seemed excited enough about the prospect of a tree nursery that we began planning together to take the effort a step further.

On Sunday, April 14th, our group constructed a small plot for our new tree nursery to be used during the upcoming training. Here, Omundi and Topher are each tilling the soil for the seed bed using a 'jembe', the traditional hoe used in Kenya.

Maisha ya Wanyala (Life in Budalang'i)

Josi is the owner and head cook at Jubilee, my favorite 'hoteli' I frequent for my daily meals. The fish he is holding is Nile Perch, known locally as 'Buta.' As you can see, its a pretty freakin' huge fish. It has become a staple in my diet - I prefer eating it at least once, often twice a day.

Kenyans generally prepare fish by frying first, then stewing to get 'soupu,' which is nice to dip your Ugali (a doughy substance of maize flour served with just about every meal here) into. I generally ask them to boil the fish fresh for me, with tomatos and onions. Its then served with a vegetable (either 'sukuma wiki' (kale) or 'kunde' (an indigenous leafy-green cooked with milk added)). To say I'm eating better here than in Mali would be an understatement.

Expanding Lunch to Buongo Primary

This past Friday, Edwin and I headed back out into the swamp, this time to begin laying the groundwork to expand our proposed school lunch program for Bubamba Primary School to another school, the newly formed Buongo Primary School.

Edwin and I held a community meeting with the head-teacher Obari and 23 parents under the large tree on Buongo’s school compound.

The school in Buongo began simply as an ECD (early childhood development) center, but now serves children in classes 1 and 2 as well. This totals to 94 children. The school plans to add a level each year, basically following the current students up to Class 8.

The school compound in Buongo. Parents had actually constructed this rustic mud school building voluntarily in order to start the school. The school is still not fully registered with the government, and won’t be eligible for funding for new facilities until next year.

We are now well into the rainy season, and with the significant rainfall especially upstream, the Yala River has begun to swell. Just last week, the agricultural fields adjacent to Buongo experienced significant flooding, and accessing the village required wading through water past waist deep.

'One Shining Moment' For Reflection

Being so physically distant from America, along with being rather absorbed in the moment, following the progress of my Syracuse Orange has largely taken a backseat. Whereas I used to watch every football and basketball game with religious fervor, now I follow from a distance, asking friends and family about their progress. But when the men’s basketball team won their Sweet 16 game against #1 seed Indiana, and their Elite 8 game against Marquette, things got real.

Kuchaba Enterprises, Budalang'i's Official Game-Watching Spot of the Syracuse Orange. I swear there were over 20 crazed Syracuse fans behind me.

The last time Syracuse made the Final Four was, of course, in 2003, when we won the championship. I had the pleasure of being a sophomore at Syracuse at the time, attended all of their home games during the year, and was able to travel to New Orleans with some good friends to experience the Final Four in person.

THE BLOCK. HAKIM WARRICK. With the final seconds ticking down, a three-pointer from Kansas' Michael Lee seemed destined to force the game into overtime. But our rubber man had something to say about that. I don't need much of an excuse to post this picture... siiiiccckkk...

Trudging Through Swamp and 'Siasa' (Politics)

Trekking through the swamp, back to Bubamba School to begin work. Thankfully, the water has reduced greatly.  The Yala River had swollen in January, at the time of our first trip out there, causing waters to reach up to waist-deep. This time, only up to knee-deep.

At the beginning of the month, I joined all 123 Peace Corps Kenya volunteers when we were required to consolidate in a central location, such that in the event of any widespread violence resulting from the elections held on March 4th, we would be able to quickly evacuate the country by any number of means.

Although the voting and tallying process was fraught with a number of failures and inconsistencies, and results therefore were delayed until five days after the election, there was thankfully only isolated reports of violence, all of which quickly contained by the security forces. So instead of an abrupt end of our time in Kenya, which would have marked my second evacuation in as many countries, what we were left with instead was a week and a half vacation with close friends in a rather fantastic resort in rural Kenya. Comfortable accommodations, buffet meals, Peace Corps Olympics, sports, and general shenanigans... yes please!

Working Through Political Interference

When I first heard about my site, I figured that I would have a predetermined workload. Unlike in Mali, I was assigned to a host organization, which has had over ten years experience in implementing a variety of projects within the community. I thought this meant I'd basically be an employee again. I couldn’t have been more wrong.

The disorganization within my host organization at the moment, along with the abrupt resignation of my supervisor to pursue politics once I arrived, and the departures of my initial counterpart, whom I saw only once a month anyways, and Austin, the young man who assisted me over my first two months, has meant me being again on my own, the same way I was in Mali.

We hired Edwin, my current counterpart within my host organization, on a voluntary basis at the end of November. I really enjoy working with this guy. He is very motivated to help his community, specifically marginalized villages within the Yala Swamp near where he lives. But Edwin lives across the river from me, voluntarily teaches at a local institute each afternoon, and must often scrape together odd jobs to earn money to support himself. With all of these constraints, we are only able to truly work together a couple times a week.

In many ways, I like working this way. The situation has given me a lot of freedom to determine for myself where my time can best be utilized. I am still working hard with my host organization to build it's capacity and succeed with it's current contract on Land Rights outreach. But otherwise, I have been largely able to choose whom to work with, and what needs to focus on.

Mumbaya Youth Group members during a weekly meeting this past Sunday.

Maisha Ndani ya Swamp Kabisa (Life in the Interior of the Swamp)

Yesterday, Edwin and I finished our trips to the most remote reaches of the Yala Swamp, traveling to the villages of Madua and Buhuma.

My counterpart Edwin and I took a boat through the swamp from Madua to Buhuma. George, a native of Buhuma, propels the boat forward using a bamboo rod.

Every time I head out into the swamp, I feel like I'm in some Dr. Seuss fantasy world, surrounded by crazy papyrus plants topped with green needles in the shape of balls.

In my last post, I covered the villages of Bubamba and Iyanga. Those villages were the most physically-taxing villages to get to, requiring long treks on foot, often wading through waist-deep water, in addition to pulling boats by rope permanently positioned in particularly long and deep stretches of water, and taking a boat across the Yala/Bulwani River propelled by bamboo rods.

We later visited the village of Buongo, which although being within the swamp, does not entail anywhere near the effort to access it. There, planks of wood and felled wetlands plants are used to bridge standing water within the swamp along a trail leading to the main road south of the River Nzoia..

Yesterday, we visited the villages of Madua and Buhuma. Buhuma is probably the most remote of all of the villages in the district. Inhabitants of Madua and Buhuma must enter Lake Victoria in order to reach any other village. And the distance required to reach Buhuma by boat is significant.

So you think your daily commute is tough?

When I began working with Edwin, my new counterpart we hired in November, he told me that I hadn't yet been in the swamp. I was skeptical. Villages like Runyu and Bulwani, which I had previously visited, seemed pretty damn 'in' the swamp to me.

So when Edwin, who lives by the swamp himself, planned to take me to villages in the swamp, I was curious. On Tuesday, we visited the villages of Bubamba and Iyanga. I wouldn't say that the homes were any more 'in' the swamp than homes in other villages I've been to. But we, ourselves, were certainly more 'in' the swamp to get to them.

Below is our journey in pictures:

First thing in the morning at 7AM, I made the hour long trip by bike, including the river crossing at Sigiri by boat, to meet Edwin in his village of Rukala, at the edge of the swamp. Once we met up, we began our journey into the swamp, crossing this footbridge at the village of Khulokhongo.

The chief benefit of living by the swamp: fertile soil. All of the crops we passed during the day were full and healthy. In comparison to Budalang'i, where all the crops have dried out before even bearing grains, the contrast is striking.

We passed women working their fields, as well as carrying firewood and maize back to their homes. From them, we learned that the river had swollen. They suggested that instead of continuing down the path Edwin was leading us down, we backtrack and take a different one which leads directly to the school. The water we'd have to cross would be much more manageable.

Validation

Since we last checked in with my friends in Mali at the beginning of September, a lot has happened. The news on the national front had generally been getting worse, but fortunately the situation took a turn for the better last week when France intervened to assist the Malian military in combatting rebel advances threatening the southern part of the country. And a good thing, too. The Islamic rebels were actually threatening to advance through Mopti and into Ségou region, my region!

But within my village of Makili, the past few months have been very promising, particularly regarding my work:

Water and Sanitation Committee

I have been in regular contact with my friends on our Water and Sanitation Committee, and throughout this time, the committee has continued to hold regular meetings and treat the village drinking water wells with bleach monthly.

I also know that they have been continuing to enforce rules at the pumps. While chatting with a friend of mine over the phone last week, he actually told me that as we were talking, Daoudani had caught someone slamming the handle and was enforcing the fine.

The one problem has been money collection. As villagers began the millet and rice harvests, money collection had to stop. Not only were people too busy, but also people were generally short of money until they were able to begin selling some of their new crop. There were three months of monthly dues backlogged, plus the money for well construction.

Dramani, the president of the committee, continued to assure me that they wouldn't leave the work. They just needed to wait until after the harvest to proceed. I wanted to believe him, that everything would pick back up after the harvest, but with how difficult development work can be, I had my doubts. Its not that I don't trust him, I do fully. His intentions are true. But actions and behavior change are difficult, and I certainly saw my share of setbacks while working there.

Planning in the midst of adversity...

There hasn't been a lot of opportunity to get started with work these past couple of months. After our In-Service-Training in Nairobi at the beginning of December, I returned to Budalang'i on the 12th. From that time, I've tried my best to make arrangements for a productive final stretch of Peace Corps Service. But holiday festivities, and nagging health issues, have gotten in the way.

I am currently in Nairobi being subjected to numerous tests to finally sort out what digestive ailment has been distressing me over the past two and a half months. Hopefully after these tests, I can move forward healthy and energized.

And that energy will be needed. If my close-of-service date of July 1st, 2013 holds true, I now have less than six months remaining in exactly three years of Peace Corps Service (if you include Pre-Service Training), but only about five months of those have been in my current village of Budalang'i. The time is nigh to work to make my time in Budalang'i a success.

I feel that I have laid out a solid foundation for myself to build from. The problem again is, do I have time to erect anything meaningful?

I am very proud of my level of integration in Budalang'i. I feel almost as close to my village here as I did in Mali, despite being here for a much shorter period of time. I have built strong relationships with men and women of all ages. I have become near fluent in 'kiswahili', and have really made strides in 'olunyala', the local vernacular. I am now to the point where my first instinct is to speak to people in 'olunyala'. When I have trouble getting my point across, I move to 'kiswahili'. Only in the most difficult of situations do I revert to my third option, English.

It is rewarding that whenever I am out in the community, even in remote areas of the district, people call out to me by name. I will never know everyone by name, like I did in Makili. The sense of community just isn't as strong, and the area much more vast. But I do feel that I belong.

Being a valued and trusted member of the community means that I should be more easily able to affect change. But with my focus having been placed foremost on integration, I haven't really begun any real projects. I am behind. So what projects am I now planning to pursue?

New Year's in Budalang'i

Kenyans generally celebrate the arrival of the new year in much the same way that Americans do. There is sports during the day, and a night out on the town with friends. The sports and the venues may vary, but at their core, celebrations are much the same.

The final match of the football tournament pitted my hometown team of Budalang'i against Mundere, another small village bordering Budalang'i. The guys wore English Premier League jerseys of their choice to distinguish teams. Yellow was Budalang'i. 

Beginning on December 30th, Budalang'i hosted a three-day football tournament involving local teams in the northern part of our district. The event culminated on New Year's Day with the final between Budalang'i and Mundere. During intermissions, women's dance groups sang and performed traditional music to keep the crowd entertained.

The event was sponsored by, 'kama kawaida' (as usual), local politicians within the ODM political party. They provided not only a trophy to the winning team, and some prize money to the top four, but also the tent and PA system rental. The tent, as is always the case in Kenya, is there primarily to provide seating for the guests of honor, generally the sponsors themselves and local political officials.