Thursday, December 27, 2012

Kenya's Complicated Political Culture

A NARC-Kenya political rally on Wednesday, December 19th, within Budalang’i market center was well attended.  
There is a reason why my entries from Kenya have largely been devoid of discussions on local culture, especially when you compare them to those from Mali. It is not that my interest in culture has waned. Rather, it is difficult for me to pick out any real noticeable differences from America. Most of Kenya, and the Abanyala people of Bunyala in particular, have adopted a largely western lifestyle, phasing out many of their traditions.

Any discussion of modern-day Kenyan culture must begin and end with politics. After having lived in Mali for nearly two years, where no one in village ever really engaged in a serious political discussion, this is in many ways refreshing.

In Mali, there is such a grave disconnect between the government and its people. Village life is by-and-large unaffected by the political powers in Bamako. Regardless of whoever won any election, rural Mali never saw any changes. No new roads, no electricity, no infrastructure, nor stable water supply.

In the days following the coup d’état, the events in the country were only topically discussed. It was a political transformation in the most extreme sense, but it was still only worth a mention. The consensus was that it was not a big deal. Things would sort itself out in Bamako, and there would be no ramifications in village no matter how things proceeded. Imagine the contrast in sentiment if the government of Kenya collapsed. Or America.

So the fact that politics plays such a large role in life here expressly means that its people do benefit from their government. And they do feel an impact, have a stake, in the shape their democracy takes in the future.

With the promise shown by this vibrancy also comes a dark side. Following the previous presidential election in 2007, widespread violence swept throughout country. Election results were seen by many communities as manipulated, which sent long-running tribal tensions, always simmering beneath the surface, to the forefront. Over 1,000 lives were claimed in these brutal clashes.

Unfortunately, politics still have a distinctly tribal edge to them. Many communities have their own candidates, and if past trends continue, they will vote along those lines. Contrastingly, the Luhya people of Western Region, the most densely populated region in Kenya, which includes the Abanyala, rarely come out united behind one candidate, particularly because it is rare for a Luhya to be a serious candidate for the presidency.

Spending the bulk of my free time in town, most conversations invariably drift towards politics. And it is interesting. Almost daily, there comes new intrigue of political alliances, controversial rhetoric, judicial trials, legal reviews, and personal betrayals.

Given the interest, and the level of competition for local and national offices, every local event, regardless of the purpose, generally includes a local politician as a guest of honor, and events eventually devolve into a series of speeches from aspiring local candidates, complete with the chanting of party slogans. But more often, local events are expressly political.
Honorable Martha Karua, the presidential candidate of NARC-Kenya, addresses the crowd. She is a strong and intense, yet principled, woman.
Political rallies occur weekly, even in my small community of Budalang’i. And with the upcoming election in March fast approaching, the major national political players are touring such areas in search of votes. Even the presidential candidates come out to these small village centers in an effort to wrangle votes.
A Ford-Kenya rally on the same day also drew a large crowd.
So politics in itself is a major part of Kenyan culture. But with political events drawing large crowds from the community, they also provide a platform for other aspects of culture to emerge.
These political rallies often provide a rare glimpse into the traditional culture of the area. These men sang and played traditional instruments to kick off the celebration.
Traditional music and dancing groups frequent these events. The youth also come out with their form of hip-hop and dance culture. With the overpowering western influence on daily life, these events can therefore serve as, in some ways, a refreshing showcase for the traditions of old.
Kenyan politicians never miss an opportunity to have a stake in the limelight, as they join dancers soon after the beginning of any performance.
Politics in Kenya is a complicated manner that draws passion and enthusiasm from its people. It is undeniably a major component of the culture within this diverse country. Taking the good with the bad, it has the power to bring people together, or pull them apart.
The youth are also profoundly involved. These teenagers, a crowd favorite, thrilled those in attendance with choreographed dance moves to Kenyan club music.

1 comment:

  1. What an interesting contrast to Mali, Mike! Thanks for using your unique perspective to share Kenyan life with the rest of us!

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