Mali's Cinquantenaire...

'Sira, a ma ɲe.' (The road was bad.) Because of all of the rain we had been getting during the rainy season, the road to the commune seat had large, deep pools of standing water. Normally I would bike, but instead I opted to tag along on this 'misi wotoro' (cart pulled by two bulls). Not the most comfortable ride, but better than the alternative.

The Cinquantenaire de l’Indépendance, the 50th Anniversary of the Republic of Mali’s Independence was September 22, 2010. This was a big deal throughout the country, including my small community 100 kilometers east of Ségou.

My jatigi's son, Abdoullaye Diarra, keeping the steady hand on the bulls during the ride to the festival.

It was towards the end of the rainy season, and with all of the rain we had gotten, to bike anywhere required wading knee-deep in standing pools of water. So instead, I took a ‘misi-wotoro’ (bull-cart) into my commune seat/capital, which doubles as my market town, approximately 4 kilometers away from my village. I was surprised to see the richness of the culture that was on display so close to my quaint little village.

Some local children posing for the camera. This was all them...

I arrived into the center of town around 11AM. The Mayor of the commune was speaking to the crowd over the loud speaker to fervent ovations. After the mayor finished his speech, a group of local men in traditional hunting/militia clothing fired off sporadic rounds of blanks from their shotguns while dancing along the side of the crowd.

A group of teens, one row of men in purple, one row of women in blue and white striped-shirts and green berets, marching into the center of the festivities. Note the shirts the men are wearing: 'My Dream Barack Obama.'

Next, a group of young teens in berets marched into the center of the crowd to perform to a series of military marching commands. My favorite part… note the purple ‘My Dream Barack Obama’ shirts the young men were wearing. Barrack Obama’s face and name is plastered all over everything from sandals and jeans to playing cards and barber shops. But it is especially entertaining to me considering the man has nothing to do with the nation’s independence.

The first 'jacko' to make an appearance. This is the 'saca,' which is Bamanakan for sheep. Sheep are raised heavily for meat and wool in the region.

This 'jacko' is known as the 'Ginɛ.' I call it the 'toubabu ka jan' (Bamanakan for the tall toubab). Naturally, it represents France's colonial rule over Mali.

The 'Ginɛ' grew larger and larger, and when it reached it's final height, it began to wobble until it collapsed.

The rest of the ceremony was performed alongside live music involving local drummers and four female singers, which was very traditional, lively, and fun. There were more groups of young gendarmerie officers and teenage school children performing marches for the crowd. But in stark contrast to the rigid, structured marching regimes, there were several opportunities where local men broke out some rather maniacal and energetic dancing in pairs.

Local men in traditional militia/hunting attire dancing and firing shotgun blanks into the air following the collapse of the 'Ginɛ,' celebrating Mali's independence.

A group of young men and women performing military marching exercises under the command of the man standing to the right in Mali's national colors.

Local men and women engaging in celebratory dancing in traditional attire.   

A brief photo opportunity during the ceremony with men and women in traditional Malian attire gathered around the Malian flag.

Village men dancing excitedly in pairs during the celebration.

Throughout the ceremony, locals dressed up as ‘jacko(s),’ which appear to be fairly unique to this small commune 100 kilometers East of Segou. Some of them were fairly straight-forward in their representations, such as the ‘saca’ and the ‘misi’, an animal with a coffin-box-type body and a sheep or cow head respectively which bobs around on one side.

Additionally, there was a ‘jacko’ known as the ‘ginɛ,’ which was a stereotypical ‘toubabu’ (white Frenchman) figure with arms spread-wide like a crucifix. Naturally, the ‘ginɛ’ is intended to represent colonial rule over Mali by the French. The figure then grew taller and taller until it towered over the procession several stories high, as French once did over the Malian population.

Once it reached it’s final height, it began to sway back and forth until final it seemed to collapse, signifying the end of colonial rule and the beginning of Mali’s independence. Local men in militia/hunting attire then engaged in celebratory dancing while firing off shotgun blanks into the air.

These traditional drummers provided the music for the afternoon.

A 'jacko' representing 'misi' (cattle) on the left, with traditional drummers on the right. 

The 'misi jacko' and a local man engaged in celebratory dancing.

There were two ‘jacko(s)’ however that I have not been able to get a direct answer on what they represent/the history behind the creatures. I have been told that they are representative of Africa and Africans, perhaps the Segou region in particular, but not of what aspects. The first was the ‘Kungalosaba,’ which was a rat-like furry mascot figure that was quickly surrounded by men and women dancing excitedly. Towards the end of the dancing, the ‘Kungalosaba’ seemed to be beaten by men dancing around it.

This 'jacko' resembling a rat is called the 'Kungalosaba.'  This picture was taken as village men danced around the 'kungalosaba,' appearing to beat it.  I am not sure what the significance of this 'jacko' is.

The second jacko is known as the ‘Komo,’ a person in another furry mascot costume, this time wearing a traditional African mask, wielding branches in both hands, and having a large, pregnant-looking belly. My understanding is that the ‘komo’ represents something about African women, but it seems like a rather odd portrayal, especially considering some of it’s provocative dance moves.

This 'jacko' is known as the 'Komo.'  Like the 'Kungalosaba,' it represents something about Africa or the Segou region in particular, but I am not sure exactly what that is.

It was a very interesting, entertaining event with lots of culture. It appears that most other communes celebrated with dancing, bike races, and eating competitions, but no one I’ve talked to from the Peace Corps experienced anything similar to the ‘jacko(s).’ Congratulations, Mali, on the 50th anniversary of your independence!

Two of the local women singing during the ceremony.