'jako bɔ ɲɛnajɛw'

The scene in the dugutigi's (chief of the village) concession at the conclusion of Kɔrɔ's 'jako bɔ ɲɛnajɛ.'

After being in village for over a year, I have experienced all of the seasons of village life, and therefore most of the major events. However, there is one major festival that had evaded me last year due to training which had kept me in Ségou. This festival is the 'jako bɔ ɲɛnajɛw' (mascot/costume festival).

This event is held each year just before 'ɲɔ tigɛ waati' (millet harvest time). The tradition harkens back to the animist roots of the Bambara people, prior to their conversion to Islam. Although the Bambara ethnic group is predominant throughout Mali, 'jakow' are only found in our small, immediate area within the Ségou region. Bambara people elsewhere in the country have no such tradition.

My village used to hold such a festival every year, but ceased to do so over ten years ago. But two nearby villages in my commune have kept the torch burning, and it is in these villages, Kɔrɔ and Siyjan, where I was able to experience this unique and exceptional event.

The festivals begin at around 10PM at night, and last until 'fajiri waati' (the first call to prayer in the morning, around 4:30AM). Kɔrɔ held their festival twice over two weeks. On the final day, after halting at 4:30AM, we all got a couple precious hours of sleep before beginning again at 8AM for another three hours.

I hitched a ride on a 'misiw wɔtɔrɔ' (cattle cart) commandeered by a group of young kids from my village to get to and from the first festival night in Kɔrɔ. For the Siyjan festival and the second Kɔrɔ festival, I biked out to the villages, meeting my good friends Tayluru and Lamissa there who arrived by motorcycle.

I then stayed overnight with a 'jatigi' (host family) before biking back the following day. On both occasions, I was overwhelmed by the kindness and hospitality of the people I stayed with. They not only prepared a bed for me (read: a bed in the Malian sense, a thatch rug laid upon the ground with a sheet over it), but also prepared bath water for me in the morning, served me tea, and fed me.

Each festival takes place as follows: Music is provided by a 'dununw', a group of three men who play traditional Bambaran drums. The drums are at first accompanied by two male singers, who sing a traditional song specific to the 'jako' that is about to arrive. During this time, young men enter the dance floor to perform traditional, energetic dances which involve a lot of jumping and kicking.

Once the 'jako' arrives, the two men hand the microphones over to two 'jelimusow' (traditional female singers/griots), who sing the same 'jako'-specific song as the 'jako' spins and dances. It is a highly energized affair, and men and women both often surround the 'jako' in dance. Some men also blow into horns made from 'misi bien' (cow horns) as they dance. While the men perform energetic dances involving jumping and kicking, the women perform the 'jantigi,' the same dance which is traditionally performed during 'kɔnyɔnw' (wedding ceremonies).

This process is repeated for each and every 'jako.'

I had lots of fun at these festivals, and the richness of the culture left me fascinated. So I wanted to give you all a sampling of what it was like in pictures:

Kɔrɔ Festival Night 1 - Thursday, October 20th

A 'sama' (elephant) 'jako.'

A 'waraba' (lion) 'jako.'

A view from the back of the crowd at Kɔrɔ's 'jako bɔ ɲɛnajɛ.'

Men from Kɔrɔ proudly posing alongside one of the many 'jako' they made for the festival.

Men dancing and jumping to the 'dunun' music at the festival.

A zebra 'jako.'

Siyjan Festival - Sunday, October 23rd

I believe the Siyjan men made this 'jako' for the soul purpose of beating people upside the head. It would wander around the perimeter of the crowd, then slam it's tall head down onto the audience. It was very amusing.

This same 'jako' gearing up for another confrontation. To the left is one of the two 'jelimusow' (female singers/griots).

Men performing an energetic traditional dance during the Siyjan festival. 

The two 'jelimusow' and the three 'dununw' traditional drummers providing the music for the festivities. I loved the woman in green for her energy. She had the widest eyes and a genuine smile on her face as she sung, swinging a traditional broom-like pom pom in one hand as she sung.

Not sure what this 'jako' was, but it had a huge tail that nearly took the head off of the 'jelimuso' in green.

A horse and rider 'jako.'

Maybe I should put an 'R' rating on this post. This 'jako' has something emenating from his pelvis which he thrust back and forth as he lurched around the dance floor with walking-sticks in both hands. He must be some sort of fertility 'jako.'

A zebra 'jako.'

This 'jako' had a peach-colored man mounted on it's head. The man's hands move up and down, under the control of the man underneath.

A 'waraba' (lion) 'jako.'

Some sort of a 'kɔnɔba' (large bird) 'jako.' But confusingly, this 'jako' walked around on four legs, the front two being walking-stick type attachments to the man's hands. The man in blue, particularly excited by this 'jako,' is fanning it using a local hand-weaved fan.

A 'jako' at the Siyjan festival.

The 'jelimuso' singing away as a 'jako' of a peach-colored woman with large exposed breasts, made to clap it's hands together under the control of the man underneath, performs. Men dance and jump excitedly alongside the 'jako.' I later asked the men why all of their human 'jakow' are colored as if caucasian. Are they 'toubabu' (white/french)? They responded yes, but I find that hard to believe, since you don't often see a white woman roaming outdoors bare-breasted. I believe they simply took some artistic license, as the peach color contrasted better with the many browns on the rest of the 'jakow.'

The 'jelimuso' sings and swings her traditional broom-like pom pom, as a 'jako' sways to the music and men dance alongside it.

Men and women dance around a 'jako.'

The 'jelimuso' enjoying herself while singing, as men dance around a spinning 'jako.'

Kɔrɔ Festival Night 2 - Thursday, October 27th

Two 20-foot tall 'jakow' spin and twirl on the dance floor. These 'jakow' are made completely of the dried hay/grass, and have defined heads, bodies, and arms which can be swung out to the sides. Tayluru told me they are called 'kɔliw,' but neither Lamissa nor I knew what that was.

Siyjan and Kɔrɔ often try to outdo the other for creativity. As an answer to Siyjan's horseman, the Kɔrɔ men made this 'jako' of a colonial-looking caucasian man with a sword that moves up and down, riding a horse.

Men performing their energetic traditional dance during the Kɔrɔ festival. This dance involves men pairing up and holding each-other's hands. The men then dive forward, kicking one leg out, before taking a smaller jump backwards and repeating the process. It is rather hyperactive and quite fun.

Kɔrɔ Morning Festival - Friday, October 28th

I believe this 'jako' is called the 'nɛgɛniyo.'

I assume that the 'nɛgɛniyo,' with it's two heads that are made to constantly fondle each-other, has something to do with love.

Kɔrɔ men posing alongside one of their many 'jako.'

There was a decent-sized crowd for the event during the daylight, but since there was much work to be done in the fields at this time, it paled in comparison to the nighttime. Nevertheless, there was plenty of energy to be found.

Three men play the traditional Bambaran drums of the 'dununw' while two men sing prior to the arrival of a 'jako.'

A 'ntilen' (giraffe) 'jako.'

Men proudly pose alongside their 'jako,' which features a red man mounted atop the head, with arms that swing up and down from controls underneath.

Kɔrɔ villagers dance during the festival.

Men performing their energetic traditional dance during the Kɔrɔ festival. This dance involves men pairing up and holding each-other's hands. The men then dive forward, kicking one leg out, before taking a smaller jump backwards and repeating the process. It is rather hyperactive and quite fun.

Three men play the traditional Bambaran drums of the 'dununw' while the two 'jelimusow' (female singers/griots) sing, seated, to their right.

A young boy rides atop the back of a 'misi' (cow) 'jako' into the festival grounds.

To conclude the 'jako bɔ ɲɛnajɛ' in the village of Kɔrɔ, the villagers all assembled within the dugutigi's (chief of the village) concession, complete with their 'jakow' (mascots/costumes) and drums. Since the dugutigi is very old and rather immobile, he was unable to attend the festivities. So they brought the festivities to him out of respect, for his enjoyment.